The rumours about new watches from Rolex had been certainly well-founded as a result of the massive information from the model is the launch of a brand new Rolex Oyster Perpetual Explorer and Rolex Oyster Perpetual Explorer II for 2021. If the considered new Explorer watches didn’t come to thoughts, then maybe you had been firmly within the Milgauss camp, or you aren’t that involved about new watches from Rolex. The latter can’t be true or you wouldn’t be studying this in fact. Props to the observers who thought the brand new Explorers would occur, particularly the parents at Monochrome. The 2021 Explorer and Explorer II are the main bits of reports from Rolex at Watches & Wonders, so we are going to dedicate this story to these watches, primarily. There are some beautiful developments when it comes to dials, and a wonderful gem-set treasured mannequin watch, however we are going to solely commit a number of traces there.
To start with, the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Explorer, which we are going to name the Explorer for the remainder of this text, is now as soon as extra a 36mm watch. That’s down from the earlier 39mm, and really displays the proportions of the watch that it had on its debut in 1953. A serious change by any measure of that phrase, that is fairly seismic relating to Rolex; take into account the brouhaha surrounding minor adjustments with the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Submariner final 12 months, for some context. The subsequent factor to contemplate right here is that this modification is everlasting, with the 39mm model now consigned to historical past. The editors of WOW thought the final change should have occurred about 10-12 years in the past, and we’re fairly sure that the 39mm measurement debuted in 2010 (which I vaguely recall).
Now, the dimensions is critical however the presence of a yellow Rolesor mannequin calls for consideration. No Explorer mannequin has ever been supplied in treasured metals, so it is a true first. It might have been just like the introduction of a ceramic bezel for the Explorer II, which didn’t occur. So what does this imply? Properly, we will need to see however we are going to depart that to later this week, as soon as we see the true watches (sure we’re capable of see the precise watches this week in Singapore). That is necessary as a result of some particulars, such because the thickness of the case and the profile of the lugs, won’t be clear till we see the watches in actuality (and accumulate some unofficial suggestions). To cap issues off, you’ll have heard that the actions on each Explorer fashions are new for 2021. That is true, however neither motion is definitely new. For the Explorer, the calibre is now the automated 3230, whereas the Explorer II is powered by the automated calibre 3285.
For the Explorer II, this now signifies that the mannequin is as soon as extra powered by the identical motion because the GMT-Grasp II. There are different particulars that matter right here, for the Explorer and Explorer II. For the Explorer, the phrase Explorer has moved again to the 12 o’clock place, and Chromalight is now in play (the glow was beforehand blue as effectively however we’re unsure if it was the identical Chromalight). A pleasant element that Rolex followers will admire is at 6 o’clock on the Explorer II, and has one thing to do with the crown visible between the phrases Swiss and Made, which we beforehand famous within the Submariner final 12 months. We depart this element for the true connoisseur, as a result of now we have to maneuver lastly to these few phrases for the opposite Rolex information.
I’ll maintain it easy and go together with my preliminary response to the brand new dials for the Datejust 36 and the Cosmograph Daytona: it’s mad. I can see loads of cynicism right here, however simply from the visuals they give the impression of being wonderful. None of that is completely unprecedented however we should maintain our tongues till we see the watches within the steel, for apparent causes. Lastly, the gem-set marvels of the Day-Date 36 and the Girl-Datejust. These are phenomenal, if solely to these with a yen for the unapologetically luxurious. Once more, it’s the particulars that matter as a result of within the Girl-Datejust, for instance, the black hour markers make the watch a real standout. We’ll absolutely have extra to say on these fashions particularly, and we are going to reserve our ideas for a later date. You possibly can make sure that this story will obtain some updates as soon as we end our in-person viewing.
All photographs courtesy of Rolex.